( Our trip from Costa Rica to Panama and back to satisfy the immigration laws)

Moving my family to Costa Rica and setting up a new business has provided me with some
unusual experiences. Our shipping container laden with our personal possessions was held
hostage at the port until we paid the extra “fee” for bringing in dangerous foodstuffs like Rice-a-
Roni and instant potatoes. Instead of the same container we meticulously loaded in the states
being brought to our door as promised, we watched in shock as an old, dilapidated, open air
version of the “container” showed up three weeks late at our door. Another experience was
buying our car from a continuing rotation of different brothers who showed up at each meeting,
with each one claiming to be the owner of the vehicle. Somehow, my lawyer sorted it out; and
we took possession of our car containing the most elaborate, custom 3 pronged alarm system one
could imagine. But, our family’s forced evacuation from the country and the immigration
nuances experienced is our most recent singular activity.

The law is clear: until legal residency is achieved , a foreigner living in Costa Rica must leave the
country every 90 days for 72 hours. We knew the law, and were prepared to do so. Twice a year
we would return to the U.S. to see family and drum up business for our travel company. But,
when our business required that we stay close to home; we would just jump into Panama to the
south for 72 hours. On this our first such trip, we decided to fly a local small airlines to Bocas
del Toro. I had decided to offer this area on my travel website due to its fascinating ecological
importance. Bocas del Toro is on one of a series of 9 islands in an archipelagic formation rife
with corral reefs and colorful fish. It was perfect to add to my eco package for my website. We
had flight reservations for my wife, 4 month old son and me on Nature Air, and hotel
reservations at Hotel Bocas del Toro.

At the small Pavas airport 5 minutes from our house, we checked our luggage just barely making
it under the 30 lb weight limit allowed for each paying customer. We had to pay $26
each(including infant) in exit tax for leaving Costa Rica. The 19 passenger plane was 75% full
with French, German, and American tourists. Our flight plan took us to Limon on the Caribbean
side of Costa Rica first. The flight over the mountainous rainforest was beautiful, but on our
rapid descent to the beachside airport of Limon; our son’s ears became painfully plugged. Our
efforts to make him yawn were more comical than productive. We learned from then on that
nursing on a bottle produces similar results to a yawn. We all got off the plane to show our
passports and get the all important exit stamp to prove we left the country in time. The flight
down the coastline at low altitude was magnificent. We got incredible pictures and appreciated
the pilot letting us know he would keep the plane low enough to keep the baby’s ear from
hurting. As we landed on the small paved runway, we retrieved our paperwork for yet another
customs scenario.

As we walked in the small terminal, a uniformed customs agent informed us that only the
Americans must purchase the entrance tax of $13 each(including baby). Cash only is accepted in
the tiny office. We then take our entrance stamps to the official customs office where through a
32″ door all the luggage in random order comes through at the same time as the travelers. Our
luggage was inspected as if the contraband was coming from Costa Rica to Panama instead of the
other way around. The pleasant gentleman meticulously writing all the info from the passports
on a carbon copy pad was impervious to the not so gentle nudging by a hurried set of travelers in
our group. Even though as Americans we were the last from our plane to clear customs, our
luggage was the first inspected. That little 32″ door had more action than a flower shop on
Valentine’s Day. When they asked for my son’s occupation for the carbon copy customs pad, the
agent gave me a sneer when I said “baby.” He instead listed it as “ estudiante.” (Student)
We enjoyed our stay and found many adventures on which to send our clients. We were also able
to secure a business relationship with two fine hotels for our future clients. The food was
excellent at most of the places, but unfortunately our hotel was not one of them. Since the dollar
keeps declining in value, I kept most of my money in colones(Costa Rican monetary unit) But
Panama uses dollars and won’t accept colones. I brought a limited supply of dollars and had
planned on using my credit card for most meals, adventures and of course the hotel. As it turned
out, most of the eating establishments did not take credit cards. Therefore, on the last day, I
needed to conserve the dollars for an emergency. I thought it prudent to check with the front
desk and see if there was an exit tax at the airport. The local lady just chuckled and said, “No,
they just charge you an entrance tax if you are American.” Somewhat relieved, we used all but
$20 in cash in eating the last day.

After taking the short taxi ride to the airport, we checked our bags at the Nature Air counter.
The agent informed me that we needed to purchase our exit tax to leave the country. In another
small office, I learned that I was $25 short of the $45 ($15 each) needed. They would not accept
any credit cards, nor would they accept any of the $200 worth of colones that sat uselessly in my
wallet. The agent just smiled and told me where the bank was about half a mile away. No one
in the airport was willing to trade $25 U.S. for $50 worth of colones. With 30 minutes before
take off, all the cabs were gone and it was pouring rain. I said to myself, “ This is my job. I go
through this so none of my clients will ever suffer from a lack of information. I am blazing a
travel trail.” I situated the family in a safe spot and ran to the bank in the rain. The bank was
closed. There was an ATM, but my pin number( I never use it) was in my address book in my
luggage loaded on the plane. My savior came in the form of a clerk at a surf shop across the
street from the bank. He charged my Visa $26.25 and handed me $25 U.S. I ran back to the
airport and 20 minutes later we were in the air.

Landing in Limon on the way home, I was almost hoping for a nonexistent Costa Rican entrance
tax. Those colones in my pocket made me feel wealthy. We deplaned and went through
customs again. This time there was an intensive spot check of all of our luggage. Bringing
powdered baby formula from Panama is not the quickest way to get through customs. Luckily
the supervisor was a mother and new the smell and taste of baby formula. We then were back in
the air on our final leg. With the baby sucking furiously on the bottle, we cleared the mountains
and glided home. As we toted our luggage through the small airport towards the car, an
American tourist approached me . He needed to buy $52 worth of colones for the exit tax. I
took great pleasure in pulling those colones out of my pocket.

Randy Fauchier/ Carpe Diem Trips